Palamau Forts - the Forgotten Kingdom of Betla

Our road trip across Jharkhand, which had started from the Ranchi station, had already taken us to the mesmerizing rail station of Netarhat and the forest hinterlands of Maromar. The next stop was one of the most popular destinations in Jharkhand - that part of the Palamau Tiger Reserve, which is more well known to tourists as Betla.

If you don't visit Jharkhand for Jharkhand travel, you are not going to understand what this state holds for the tourists. Even a place as Betla in Jharkhand, which is primarily known for its national park, has so many other things that can make your Jharkhand travel mesmerizing. One of them is surely the ruins of the Palamau Forts, often called Palamu Forts, lying deep in the forests of Betla in Jharkhand.

Palamau Forts

Maromar to Betla

After the enthralling night at the Maromar Tree House, we started early the next morning. We had our breakfast at a roadside stall in a small village called Garu with Dhuska, a special cuisine of Jharkhand. As we proceeded toward our destination, the forest traveled with us - from the wilderness of Maromar to the National Park of Betla. We traveled along the road that ran through the forest and by the time we reached Van Vihar, Betla, it was almost noon.

Sight Seeing at Betla

We hadn't done enough homework before visiting Betla. So, the only thing we had in our mind when it came to Betla sightseeing was the National Park. During our Betla travel, we were planning to take a safari in the afternoon. But Betla, Jharkhand, had more to offer than the forest and national park it is famous for.

History peeks from behind the forest

In this world that's longing for more greenery, Betla is a great exception. Green forests, which extend from the hills of Maromar, surround this small town in Jharkhand. In fact, Betla is one of the first national parks in India, which is preserved since the British Raj. The forests of Betla are full of flora and fauna. However, there's more to Betla than its famous forests.

What most of the tourists don't know about Betla is that it conceals a rich history inside the dense forests. And a closer look at the place promises to help you ride the time machine to move back to the time when Betla was a kingdom of the local kings. Their palaces still exist, although in ruins. And nature has silently crept in to recapture what was once rightfully her own space.

palamau fort ruins
Ruins of the Palamau Fort


Palaces of  the Chero Kings - the Palamau Forts

If you want to know about the history of Betla, books might not be helpful. Instead, taking a trip to the heart of the erstwhile Chero kingdom might come in handy. Betla used to be the seat of the Chero kingdom during the beginning of the 16th Century. The forts, which are in ruins these days, were a busy center of activity during their rule. These Palamau Forts, however, were built before the Chero dynasty came to power.

palamau fort gate
One of the Gates at the Fort

The ruins of the two forts are located deep inside the forests of Betla. We started from the hotel in a car. The driver helped us find a guide who went along with us. The car went along the road for some time and then took a sharp turn to enter the jungles. No paved road could be seen anymore and the undulating landscape ensured a rough ride. But we found the silent sounds of the forest interesting and enjoyable. After some time, we could see one of the forts deep inside the forest. Time and nature have already started devouring it and our guide advised us not to go there, as it's infested with snakes and wild animals. After a little while, we reached in front of the gate of one of the other fort.

Palamau Fort Stairs
Steep Stairs Leading to the Roof of the Fort

These forts were built by the rulers of the Rakshel Rajput dynasty. The new fort was constructed by ruler Medini Roy. Their architectural style has clear Islamic influence due to the conquest of the fort by Daud Khan, the Mughal Commander. While the rulers and the artisans have vanished in the realms of time, their creations, although in their ruins, still stay on to tell their stories. We climbed up the steep stairs to the top of the fort. The views were exciting, as there were different shades of forest all around. The other fort could also be seen clearly from the top of this fort.

In the fort, there was also the entrance to a tunnel inside a deep well. The tunnel was constructed so that the people living in the palace could evacuate in case of an attack from outside.

tunnel
The Road that leads to the Tunnel

Kamal Dah - the Lotus Pond

Just beyond the fort is a large pond, known locally as the Kamal Dah. In the local language, Kamal means lotus and Dah means pond. It is said that the pond used to be filled with Lotus leaves and flowers. This is the pond where the queens of the Chero dynasty would come for daily ablutions. These days, however, the pond just stands as a shadow of its earlier self and you can vouch for the fact that it's hardly visited by any person these days. Although humans have forgotten the golden past of the place, nature hasn't. The pond is still covered with lotus plants. And these plants surely bloom, creating an ethereal scene.

kamal dah betla palamau fort
Kamal Dah

The trip to the Palamau Forts ended with a view of Kamal Dah. And we headed back toward Van Vihar, Betla. We needed to get ready for the Betla Jungle Safari.

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